Hidden gems

Half way between Lorient and Quiberon, the Étel river flows inland like an outstretched hand for 9 square miles. Its dangerous mouth has swallowed many a sailor and its town of the same name was once one France’s most important tuna fishing ports. These days it has plenty to interest visitors.

Overlooking an extremely important, strategic stretch of coast connecting the Atlantic to the bay of Brest, the Pointe St-Mathieu has not just dramatic views, but also a clutch of dramatic buildings. From the charming neighbouring port of Le Conquet, boats leave for the famed and feared island of Ushant.

On the peninsula of the same name, the medieval walled town of Guérande is a must-see on any visit to the Loire-Atlantique department. Overlooking salt marshes to the south and the peat bogs of Brière to the north, Guérande and its surrounding area make a great day out for all the family.

Travel southeast from Nantes, through intense Muscadet vineyards, to find the delightful, if disorientating, valley town of Clisson. Its medieval castle may look typically French, but much of the rest is distinctly Italian. Clisson was rebuilt in this charming style after terrible Revolutionary destruction.

The Bay of Morlaix is best known for its little islands: imposing Château du Taureau, idyllic Île Callot and the tiny islets that make up one of Brittany’s most important ornithology reserves. Then there’s the resort of Carantec, spectacular views and Europe’s largest megalithic mausoleum.

Northwest of Rennes, Bécherel is a must for French-speaking lovers of literature. This charming medieval town is France’s equivalent of Hay-on-Wye and has a year-long events calendar. When you’ve nosed around the bookshops, take a wander through its atmospheric streets.

Between the Gulf of Morbihan and La Baule, Pénestin is situated on a peninsula surrounded by 12 miles (20km) of coastline where you’ll find magnificent cliffs and a dozen sandy beaches. The area has an active fishing port whose main economic activity is mussel farming.

The boulders balanced alarmingly on top of each other at the gorges on the Ellé River north of Quimperlé are known as The Devil’s Rocks. The diabolical name derives from a legendary battle fought here. While canoeists now struggle with the rapids, walkers take in the spectacular scenery at more peaceful pace.

The ‘grisly rokkes blake’ of the Penmarc’h peninsula on the very southwest tip of Finistère feature nightmarishly large in one of Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales – and rightfully so; they have in reality caused too many shipwrecks. To combat the danger, several lighthouses have gone up here, the Phare d’Eckmühl dwarfing the others.

About 19 miles (30km) southeast of Rennes, La Roche-aux-Fées (fairies’ rock) in Essé is regarded as Europe’s best preserved dolmen. When you’ve checked out the ancient stones, see what local life used to be like at the Musée des Arts et Traditions Populaires before relaxing by the water.

East of Concarneau, Pont-Aven is best known for its association with the post-Impressionist painter Paul Gauguin. This attractive little village also has some lovely riverside walks, a mouth-watering food speciality and a colourful summer festival.

Like an upright tail on the end of the strange creature that is the Côte de Granit Rose, the Sillon de Talbert is a truly extraordinary geological phenomenon: a long, thin trail of pebbles stretching far into the Channel from a striking headland known as the Presqu’ile Sauvage, or wild peninsula.

The Landes de Cojoux, 28 miles (45km) south of Rennes, is Brittany’s second largest megalithic site; to the west of the village of St-Just is a collection of stone structures that is unique in Europe. The surrounding moorland is recognised for the diversity of its flora and fauna.

The proud little historic city of Dol, with its fascinating cathedral, was built above the marshes extending to the Baie de Mont St-Michel. Out of this dramatically flat landscape emerges an extraordinary outcrop, Mont Dol, where Saint Michael supposedly fought off Satan. Climb it for elating views.

Lost high in the Parc d’Armorique in central Finistère, the village of Huelgoat looks sleepy at first sight, and its lake peaceful. However, descend into the Argent Valley and you suddenly find yourself amidst a mass of magical mossy boulders that have stirred the Breton imagination in fabulous ways.

High above the River Arz, Rochefort-en-Terre has been voted one of France’s most beautiful villages and as a result is one of Brittany’s most visited sites. Make your way through the narrow streets, past ateliers and workshops, admiring the geranium-bedecked houses along the way.

The Loire expands to epic proportions between Nantes and St-Nazaire, approaching the Atlantic. The little north bank port of Lavau-sur-Loire used to thrive on river trade. Now it’s a quiet haven from which to contemplate the great estuary and its marshes, and to enjoy a practical piece of contemporary art.

Overlooking the Bay of Morlaix, the Cairn de Barnenez is the largest megalithic mausoleum in Europe and also one of the world’s oldest – it predates Egypt’s pyramids. At 246ft (75m) long and 82ft (25m) at its widest, the stone burial chamber is a must-visit for fans of ancient history and mystery.

The Blavet valley, named after the river that flows through it, is one of Morbihan’s hidden gems. Between Pontivy and Lorient, the area is known for its historic chapels, living history museums, Breton horses and outdoor activities – with plenty of opportunities for messing about on the water.

The Chaos du Corong is quite an apt name for the big granite boulders that have been strewn haphazardly along the Gorges du Corong. Situated in the centre of Brittany, northeast of Carhaix-Plouguer, this area is also known for its rich rural heritage and for being the home of the Brittany spaniel.

Giant dollops of stone give an otherworldly look to the peninsulas around Kerlouan on the north Finistère coast between Roscoff and Brest. While virtually every back garden around here can boast an astonishing, natural rock feature, the remarkably restored and rocky village of Ménéham is the highlight.