Cap Sizun

One drama after another

Picture 1 Cap Sizun

One dramatic headland follows another along the Cap Sizun from Douarnenez to the Pointe du Van. Most of these promontories prove gloriously unspoilt – and uninhabited, unless you’re a bird; along the cape’s gentler southern side, the ports of Audierne and Pont-Croix stand in slightly less daunting locations.

A pattern of cliffs and coves

Plunging cliffs, among the highest in Brittany, line the Cap Sizun’s long north coast. The only way to appreciate the wild natural setting and fabulous views across the Bay of Douarnenez to the full is to go by foot along the exhilarating coastal path and out onto the promontories. There are calm hamlets just inland and the odd small patch of sand reached by quite vertiginous paths. Boats find little coves in which to moor, while the big bay beyond is often dotted with sails on fine days.

Extraordinary promontory perches

The succession of promontories can sometimes be startling, sometimes forbidding. The most spectacular viewing points include the Pointe de Leydé and the Pointe du Millier. Birds are unfazed by the cliffs, which they make their home and one section of the coast is specially protected as an ornithological reserve. Extraordinarily, a couple of the most terrifying-looking promontories were once inhabited by men. Digs at the Pointe de Beuzec and Pointe de Castel Meur have revealed traces of Celtic occupation, including trenches and weapons. Castel Meur is a truly intimidating natural fort, only joined to the mainland by the thinnest of natural bridges.

Steep-sided ports

Round from the famed, touristy Pointe du Van and Pointe du Raz, on the Cap Sizun’s short, southern side, the coast is gentler and the beaches more generous. Highlights here are two atmospheric ports on the Goyen River: Audierne, a lively fishing harbour at the estuary and Pont-Croix a quieter town a bit inland. Both have steep streets leading away from the water. In fact, at Pont-Croix, historic capital of the Cap Sizun, the slopes between river and town are so great, it’s a bit like mountaineering to get up to the old quarter with its magnificent Flamboyant Gothic church!

Did you know?

At the Cap Sizun bird reserve, you’ll find telescopes planted along the marked paths to help you observe the wildlife, or pick up binoculars for hire at the entrance to the site.

Useful links

Audierne tourist office