Grand-Lieu

One big secret of a lake

Picture 1 Grand-Lieu Picture 2 Grand-Lieu Picture 3 Grand-Lieu Picture 4 Grand-Lieu Picture 5 Grand-Lieu

A short way southwest of Nantes hides a huge lake, Grand-Lieu, but unless you’re a bird, it’s probably not on your radar, as it remains a big secret. Stretching over flat land as it does, it’s hard to get an overview of the place, although it claims to harbour the second-largest range of birds in France.

Echoes of Africa

Fed by the Ognon and Boulogne Rivers, Grand-Lieu may be expansive –apparently it’s the largest plains lake in France – but it’s very shallow, only 0.5 metres to 2 metres deep, which is why it’s sometimes compared to an African lake. In addition, it waxes and wanes through the seasons, growing hugely with the winter waters to over 6,000 hectares, but dwindling substantially in summer. Pastures, reed beds and marshes surround Grand-Lieu, helping explain why the lake remains relatively undiscovered, and much of it is a protected nature reserve with limited access, as explained at Bouaye’s visitor centre.

Directions for twitchers

To start appreciating Grand-Lieu, you could climb the church tower at St-Lumine-de-Coutais to the southwest for an overview and from nearby La Compointrie, there’s a hiking trail to the lake. Approaching from the north, the Site des Pierres Aiguës below St-Aignan has a mobile observatory. The best place of all is probably Passay to the east, taking you close to the heart of the lake, with fishermen’s port, plus the Maison du Pêcheur explaining the fish life. However, most people come to Grand-Lieu to view the amazing array of birds, the second-largest selection in France after the Camargue. In winter, a staggering 20,000 ducks stop here. At any time, there are interesting species to spot. The rarest visitors are spoonbills and large egrets. The illusive otter also hides away happily here.

Carolingian calm

Just south of Grand-Lieu, the church of St-Philbert has stood here relatively undisturbed since the Vikings left in 9th century. It’s rare to find a religious structure of such exceptional age in France, and in good repair. It was built in honour of the great evangeliser, Philbert. The cloister garden shares the place’s tranquillity.

Did you know?

Pursuing a different animal track, popular Planète Sauvage a few kilometres northwest of Grand-Lieu, near Port-St-Père, offers safari tours around its grounds stocked with exotic animals.