Porspoder and l’Aber Ildut

Naturally protected ports

Picture 1 Porspoder and l’Aber Ildut Picture 2 Porspoder and l’Aber Ildut Picture 3 Porspoder and l’Aber Ildut Picture 4 Porspoder and l’Aber Ildut Picture 5 Porspoder and l’Aber Ildut Picture 6 Porspoder and l’Aber Ildut

The most southerly of northwest Finistère’s three abers, Aber Ildut makes a deep gash in the coast, but the port of Lanildut is a gentle balm. Heading north, a string of extraordinary circular natural harbours line up in more exposed locations, but still offer exceptional protection from the elements.

Saintly roots

This succession of startling little ports has long roots, and strong connections with some of the most influential religious men who came over from the British Isles in the Dark Ages. Indicated in the names of Lanildut, Lampaul and St-Samson, the last place has a remarkable little chapel which stands on its own facing rugged seas near the Pointe de Trémazan.

Seaweedy past and present

On this very rocky coast, seaweed proved a useful crop down the centuries. Now, Lanildut claims the distinction of being the largest algae producer in Europe. Serving first as fertiliser, then for making glass, and from the 19th century in the production of iodine, extracted by burning the seaweed on the strands. In modern times, it’s used for everything from cookery to pharmaceuticals. From May to October, you can see tonnes of seaweed being unloaded at the waterside. Behind, the old village of Lanildut is delightful, shielded from the elements not only by the estuary, but also by a curtain of trees. Look out for the Rocher du Crapaud, or toad rock, sticking out in the midst of the aber.

Natural protection

The diminutive ports to the north may, unlike Lanildut, have to face the open sea, but each has the surprising luck of an amazing natural harbour; a curl of stone and rocks form a protective ring and the edges are lined with the whitest of sand to delight bathers in summer. Admire the phenomenon at the charming ports of Melon, Porspoder and Argenton. At these last two, chunky circular headlands, the Presqu’île de St-Laurent and the Île Lok, stick out beyond the harbour. They’re protected natural sites, but walkers are allowed on to them. At Argenton, it’s hard to miss one of the quirkiest tearooms in Brittany, set in a big disused wooden boat parked in the harbour.

Did you know?

As you walk along this coast, look out for the odd old algae oven along the way, where the seaweed was burned on the strand, a cottage industry of the past.

Useful links

Abers tourist office