Jérôme, 'first mate', so to speak, says it's true: "The crew hardly touches the tiller," except for a few manoeuvres. It's people power alone that hoists the great sail. The morning off-shore breeze merrily wafts this lobster boat towards the Bay of Quiberon, sheltered by the peninsula of the same name. With a coffee in your hand, you can pore over nautical charts. Take a compass bearing. Children discover the art of seafaring. To get to Houat or Hoëdic, you have a glorious trip, a taste of the real Brittany. While some take a tour of the island, others take advantage of the magnificent white sandy beach. At 15:00, the jaunty blue jib is unfurled again. In the afternoon, there's a thermal breeze to carry the ship to harbour. As you return to the quayside, it's hard to take leave of this yacht and its great atmosphere.