A feeling of joyful excitement floats over the deck. Saint-Quay is getting ready to set sail, with a motley crew on board. Christophe, dashing captain and sailor since childhood, hands out the life jackets and then gets out the XXL map. After checking the weather, he makes a sketch of the planned route. The downdraught tends to carry us towards the Bréhat archipelago. Antony casts off and the boat chugs out of the harbour with the engine running.
After the dyke, Christophe hands me the helm so that he can hoist the mainsail, with the help of Elsa and Antony. On the 25 T sailing boat, you need a steady hand to steer. But feeling the large hull react, between Pointe du Sémaphore and the red-topped lighthouse of Harbour Island, is such a delight.
The wind looks set to be calm, so coffee and sodas come out on the deck house. With the Plouha cliffs as a backdrop, Christophe tells us the history of Saint-Quay, its restoration and the details of its yawl-type rigging.
The wind is getting slightly cooler: back to the halyards and sheets! Instructed by the captain, the jib sheet is rigged to starboard and then the yawl is hoisted. With the engine off, nothing but the wind makes the sail ripple, accompanied by the sound of water lapping the hull. To keep on course to Bréhat, we stay “ready to tack”. In the middle of the stays, Christophe tells us which rope to take hold of. Between contemplation and action, there are some lovely surprises. A Northern gannet diving head first. Rays of sunshine piercing through the clouds. Or three mackerels shooting up out of the water troll-caught by Elsa.
The arrival of the fish on the deck is a reminder that we need to choose somewhere to moor for dinner and the night. Anse de Bréhec welcomes us, in the shelter of its cliffs. A little shower of water falls over the deck house as the sails are smoothly lowered by Ben and Christophe. A little bit of shallot, some mustard, and the mackerels are popped into the oven while we finish our aperitif. In the saloon, the meal spotlights local products. The 27 nautical miles travelled in the day can be felt in our arms and eyes, and it’s time to slip under the covers and be rocked. Especially as it’s an early call in the morning!
At 6.30am, after a good night’s sleep, we’re back on the deck. Sunrise has stirred us from our bunks. While the granite is bathed in golden light, the sun appears on the horizon. Ben smiles widely: “I’m so happy!” “You feel like you’re at the edge of the world”, adds Amandine. The smell of coffee snaps us out of our reverie. After eating pancakes, we raise the anchor. As we approach Saint-Quay-Portrieux, Saint-Quay Portrieux, Christophe parades the sailing boat in front of Casino Beach. Back on the quay, the jib sheet is folded on the pontoon and the awning is put back on the boom. But, like Ben, we’re all ready to set sail again..
