Meet the myth
In the Pays Bigouden area, reaching for the stars is popular: traditional ‘coiffe’ head-dresses do it, steeples do it, and so do the lighthouses that you find all along the coastline. The Eckmühl lighthouse stands higher than most, and is more deeply steeped in legend. It’s also the only one that opens its doors to visitors late in the evening.
At the foot of this stone sentinel, about 10 of us are waiting to begin our vertical journey. In the dusk, the lighthouse looks different somehow, more peaceful. Alexandra and Adeline greet us beside the mahogany door. And there’s the famous spiral staircase. Like a strange giant mollusc, it coils majestically skywards. And so do we! The climb begins. Only another 290 steps to go!