Saint-Cado et la ria d'Etel

Go with the flow

Picture 1 Saint-Cado et la ria d'Etel Picture 2 Saint-Cado et la ria d'Etel Picture 3 Saint-Cado et la ria d'Etel Picture 4 Saint-Cado et la ria d'Etel Picture 5 Saint-Cado et la ria d'Etel

Half way between Lorient and Quiberon, the Étel river flows inland like an outstretched hand for 9 square miles. Its dangerous mouth has swallowed many a sailor and its town of the same name was once one France’s most important tuna fishing ports. These days it has plenty to interest visitors.

Étel estuary

The river is best known for the underwater sandbar at its entrance, which moves with the wind and currents but disappears at high tide. A semaphore, operated by the only female operator in France, indicates when boats can pass – not during high winds or at low tide; it is occasionally possible to visit.

Something fishy

Now sporting both a marina and a boat graveyard, the town of Étel was one of France’s main centres for tuna fishing from 1930s to 1960s; there were 250 boats, 1000 fishermen and 12 canneries. The Musée des Thonniers charts the history of the industry as well as remembering some of the river’s tragedies including a storm in 1930 when 10 boats went down and 72 souls perished; the museum attracts many visitors at Christmas who come to see its maritime nativity scenes.

Oyster farming

Oysters have been farmed along the river since the 1890s and now there are about 75 farmers who produce around 3,000 tonnes per year; ask at the tourist about visiting a farm or find a riverside restaurant for a leisurely tasting.

Picture perfect

North of Belz is the tiny islet of St Cado, a former sardine port, which is reached from the mainland by a short stone bridge. Its pretty whitewashed houses conceal a 12th-century chapel on the site of a 6th-century structure founded by Cado, a Welsh prince. Between the mainland and the islet, a former oyster farmer's cottage sits alone on a rock in the middle of the river – you’ll see it on many a postcard.

Life’s a beach

In the south, 5 miles of sandy beaches stretch from the mouth of the river towards Quiberon. In the far west, Kerminihy beach tolerates nude sunbathing while Kerhillio is a magnet for families thanks to its safe bathing and summer lifeguards; whatever your taste there’s plenty of parking. The beaches are backed by 700 acres of protected dunes.

Did you know?

In 2006, 50 fallen Neolithic standing stones were unearthed in the town of Belz.

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With TripAdvisor’s reviews from travellers

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