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Tartare d'algues

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NICOLAS DEQUIN

Seaweeds find their way to your plate in a thousand and one ways! With their outstanding nutritional qualities, unique textures and wide variety of flavours between sea-saltiness and vegetable, these superfoods awaken our taste buds and have opened up a whole new realm of Breton gastronomic possibilities. Increasing numbers of local chefs are appropriating this previously little-known repertoire filled with tasty surprises. Brittany’s coastline boasts Europe’s most prolific seaweed beds. Cool!

How do seaweeds benefit us?

We may think we know all about seaweeds but they’ve got a few more secrets left in store for us. They don’t have roots; they have holdfasts to attach themselves to rocks. So they draw their benefits directly in the seawater and are packed with trace elements, iodine, vitamins and mineral salts. Used in agriculture since the 17th century, seaweeds are now an established ingredient in Breton cuisine. Of the almost 800 species of seaweeds present in Brittany, some fifteen edible species are authorised for sale.

What are Brittany’s top seaweed spots?

Unlike the situation in Asia, seaweed farming still isn’t very widespread in France. So the resource mostly comes from harvesting wild seaweeds. As mentioned above, the Breton coastline boasts Europe’s largest seaweed beds, with a few key spots such as Roscoff. The Finistère town is regarded as the region’s “seaweed capital” with its internationally renowned research centre and many companies connected with the seaweed economy. One of the most emblematic of all is BRETALG, which has been supplying numerous industrial concerns with organic edible seaweeds since 1991. In Brittany, most seaweed harvesting takes place in the Iroise Marine Park, as well as off the Golden Belt and the Pink Granite Coast. In southern Finistère, off Lesconil, Algolesko practices algaculture, producing kelp on almost 150 hectares. At the other end of Brittany, on the Rance, not far from Saint-Malo, C-Weed Aquaculture specialises in longline kelp farming.

How are they harvested?

Seaweeds are harvested by hand on the foreshore at low tide, preferably when they’re  still immersed in seawater. Cut seaweeds rather than tearing them off the rocks, and avoid collecting seaweeds that are still too young: every precaution must be taken in order to perpetuate the resource. Kelp harvesting is carried out by boat. Kelp harvesters (“goémoniers”) use worm screws equipped with hooks, also known as “scoubidous”. Algaculture enables the farming of special varieties. Once collected, the seaweeds are washed to remove sand residues and shellfish.

Souffleurs de Breizh - portrait de Lenny Gouédic de Begood Alg
Souffleurs de Breizh - portrait de Lenny Gouédic de Begood Alg

Did you know?

Become an expert on seaweed by visiting specialised institutions:

  • La Maison de l’Algue in Lanildut
  • The Ecomusée des Goémoniers et de l’Algue in Plouguerneau, has become Algae, a cultural and scientific centre dedicated to the discovery and promotion of seaweed.
  • The Eclosarium Daniel Jouvance on Houat Island
  • Les Jardins de la Mer – Marine farm in Le Croisic. Valérie and Jean-Marie Pédron are two of France’s greatest seaweed connoisseurs. They supply numerous Michelin-starred restaurants and organise fascinating educational “harvesting”, “cooking” and “discovery of seaweeds on the farm” workshops.

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How do you recognise edible seaweeds?

You can distinguish seaweeds by their colour. Bear in mind that sea fennel and glasswort are not seaweeds but marine plants.

Brown seaweeds 

  • Thongweed: also called “sea spaghetti” due to its long flat shape, it can be as much as 4 metres in length. It’s eaten as a vegetable, boiled or fried.
  • Royal Kombu: this is a species of kelp with a meaty texture and smoky flavour. It’s used to wrap around fish or meat.
  • Wakame: it’s nicknamed “sea fern” due to its appearance and is much appreciated for its briny flavour, raw in salads or added to soups and hot dishes.

Red seaweeds 

  • Dulse: a thin, translucent seaweed with a full-bodied taste, it goes perfectly with shellfish and crustaceans. You can also find it in the form of flakes and crisps.
  • Nori: a key ingredient of sushi, this seaweed has a slightly smoky flavour and is also eaten in tartare and pesto form, as a condiment and as crisps.

Green seaweeds 

  • Sea lettuce: it tastes rather like sorrel and is great in salads and smoothies as well as in crisp form and in papillote dishes.

Blue seaweeds

  • Spirulina: surely you know spirulina? In the kitchen, as dietary supplement and in cosmetics, it’s THE trending microalga. And for good reason, as its properties are truly amazing when it comes to strengthening your immune system and making up for deficiencies. For example, it contains three times as much protein as meat! In Brittany, this emerald blue seaweed is winning over increasing numbers of specialised producers, including Spiru’Marine in Sarzeau, Dana Spirulina near Redon and Spiruline de Bretagne in Douarnenez.

When can you eat them?

Harvesting is mostly carried out during spring tides when the foreshore is uncovered and provides easy access to coastal seaweeds. Harvesting Royal Kombu and  wakame starts in late winter. In spring, it’s nori’s, sea lettuce’s, dulse’s and sea spaghetti’s turn. Harvesting stops in summer and resumes in the autumn for nori, dulse and sea lettuce. 

 

How are they eaten?

Cooked as a vegetable, in tartares and confits, on canapés as an aperitif, sprinkled over dishes in flake form and in artisanal conserves for picnics, seaweeds will always delight your taste buds! Powdered seaweeds can also replace salt. In gelling agents such as agar-agar, they replace gelatine.

What kinds of seaweed drinks are there?

As well as being included in a good many recipes and preparations such as pasta, bread, butter, biscuits and charcuteries, seaweeds also enhance drinks. Seaweed teas by  Tonnerre de Brest  and  Thalgo  and  Thalion infusions come in a whole range of original flavours. Beer lovers will also find what they’re looking for with La Ouessane (wakame beer), La Guernouillette seaweed amber ale(brewed from dulse and kombu) and Tonnerre de Brest organic amber ale. 

 

Shopping – Where can I buy them?

There are numerous seaweed producers and processors in Brittany

  • Algoplus Roscoff, a harvesting and processing company, organises guided tours in discovery of the seaweed harvester’s profession, during which visitors can witness the various production stages in the artisanal cannery
  • Bord à Bord, one of the first companies to have made Brittany’s inhabitants aware of edible seaweeds, specialises in canned seaweed condiments in Roscoff.
  • GlobeXplore has been producing edible seaweed-based recipes in Rosporden for over 30 years, including its Perles de Saveurs®, little seaweed-based jelly balls with liquid centres available in a variety of flavours.
  • Marinoë, organic seaweed and spirulina producer and processor in Lesconil
  • Begood Alg: along with his partner Lucie, Lenny Gouédic harvests his seaweeds in the pure waters of Finistère, especially in the heart of Pays Bigouden. This naturally organic raw material is then meticulously processed to create delicious tartares and seaweeds for cooking. An adventure based on a resolutely artisanal, committed and sustainable approach.
  • Les Jardins de la Mer in Le Croisic. Harvests, processes, delivers to chefs and sells at the market.
  • As well as Alg’Emeraude in Saint-Lunaire, Biocean in Roscoff, Ocealg in Edern, Algo’manne in Portsall, Alguerie in Le Guilvinec and Algues Armorique in Côtes d’Armor…

How do Breton creators turn seaweeds into sustainable innovations?

Seaweed’s amazing properties provide Breton creators with new ideas pretty well every day.Bealgue reusable cups,  Algo ecological paints and  Coq en Pâte beach toys  are all made out of Breton seaweeds.

Where can I enjoy seaweeds in Brittany?

  • At the Hôtel de la Mer in Brignogan, they’re mad about seaweeds! They’ll be with you throughout your stay, from stroll on the foreshore to menu in the dining room, not forgetting the seaweed treatments awaiting your discovery in the spa.
  • At the Royal Thalasso & Spa – La Baule’s Le Fouquet’s restaurant, you can savour the chef Mikaël Amisse’s “Algo Cuisine”
  • At the Coquillage restaurant near Cancale, Hugo Roellinger has a passion for seaweeds, which he includes in many of his creations.
  • Inspired by Japanese cuisine, chef Julien Lemarié cooks fresh seaweeds in his restaurant, Ima in Rennes.
  • In Jean-Yves Bordier’s famous seaweed butter!

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