If you think surfing is a man’s world, then go to the long Rochebonne beach, with Hélène, to shake up this cliché! This former champion of France and certified instructor has put her school under the patronage of Hina, a Polynesian goddess of femininity. Sharing, humility and respect for the elements form the bases of her instruction. With her, surfing is a source of peace and well-being: what matters is living in the present, experiencing the raw pleasure of those first waves. A unique moment of grace and plenitude.

