Brittany on the spice road | Brittany tourism

From the adventures of ‘spice-hunters’ who sailed from Port-Louis, Lorient and Saint-Malo, to the sophisticated flavours of powders created by famous chefs, the story of Brittany and its spices is a tale that’s still being told…

In the blink of an eye

What’s the story behind Brittany’s spice road?

A peaceful little seaside town in southern Brittany, Port-Louis’ history is closely linked with that of the spice trade. The view from its citadel’s ramparts directs your eyes to the open sea and the outline of Groix Island. In 1664, Colbert chose the Blavet’s roadstead as the site for the French East India Company, which he had just founded with a view to developing trade with Asia. On the other side of the roadstead, naval shipyards were created, around which the town of Lorient grew up. For 40 years, Port-Louis and Lorient saw spices transiting, along with the tea, fabrics and silks that made the East India Company’s fortune. The wars waged against the Netherlands, Spain and England weakened sea trade… In the early 1700s, the bankrupted East India Company passed into the hands of the “Messieurs of Saint-Malo”, as the city’s shipowners and corsairs were nicknamed. It was these “spice hunters” who built the “Malouinières” – imposing country manors steeped in history, some of which are currently open to visitors…

The French East India Company Museum

These days, Port-Louis’ citadel houses the French East India Company Museum. From Lorient to Pondichéry, it traces the adventures of the ships that ploughed the world’s seas in the 17th and 18th centuries in search of Asia’s treasures. Models of vessels, old maps, porcelains from China and cotton fabrics from India feature among the museum’s remarkably rich collections. To explore on self-guided and guided tours.

Musée de la Compagnie des Indes

Click. Inspire. Go…
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Where and how were Roellinger spices created?

A “Cajun powder” in tribute to the Acadians who reinvented Louisiana cuisine and a “Breton gomashio”, whose ingredients include buckwheat from Brittany, sesame from Egypt, nigella and coriander from India, are two of his most famous creations. As the undisputed master in the art of spices, Olivier Roellinger’s inspiration is limitless. A child of Cancale Bay, the famous Breton chef set up his laboratory in the family Malouinière, La Maison du Voyageur, where, with a little help from his daughter Mathilde, he invents his famous powders. Most of the ingredients in his spices, which are roasted and ground in situ, come from organic farming and fair trade. Olivier Roellinger travels to the countries that produce them in order to hand pick the rare leaves, flowers, barks, seeds and bulbs used in his blends. With close to a hundred creations to its name, Epices Roellinger’s range is certainly an impressive one.

Where can I buy spices in Brittany?

Epices Roellinger warehouse shops

Cancale, Saint-Malo, Paris

Teak and rosewood furniture, jars of vanilla pods, mashrabiya cabinet… In itself, the mise en scène of these warehouse shops summons up the image of an imaginary traveller, whisking you away to exotic lands on such legendary itineraries as the Route to the Indies. The aromas of raw spices, peppercorns and spice blends waft from rows of pretty, neatly arranged bottles. Saffron, cardamom, cinnamon, sumac, Neptune powder, Corsair Curry powder… Distant horizons take shape, gourmet inspirations too, thanks to the sound advice imparted by the crews of connoisseurs who welcome you aboard. If you can’t visit these stunning outlets, bear in mind that Roellinger family products are available at the online shop (www.epices-roellinger.com).

Epices Roellinger

A “ship’s hold” filled with the world’s spices

Paimpol, Vannes et bientôt Rennes

A schooner serves as its logo in a tip of the hat to Paimpol’s seafaring past. Established in the Côtes-d’Armor town in 2015, “La Cale aux Épices” was born of the long-distance journeys undertaken by Christophe Lemaire. A spice aficionado and a “grinder” in his own right, the shop’s globe-trotting owner is happy to share his discoveries and his own creations with customers. Following Paimpol, the brand is now present in Vannes and Rennes. In his shops with their “apothecary-style” retro decor, Christophe Lemaire has 55 spices on offer, along with some fifteen curry powders of his own composition, a good thirty or so blends for marinades and some 85 varieties of peppercorns and berries. Products he continues to select himself from all four corners of the globe, returning from each journey with new recipes.

La Cale aux épices

What exactly is “Kari gosse”?

Its recipe has been a well-guarded secret since the 19th century. It’s said to have been communicated to a Monsieur Gosse, an apothecary with a shop in Auray (Morbihan), by a shipwrecked Indian he gave shelter to. Xavier Pouëzat, his descendant, continues to make it – behind closed doors, of course. Kari Gosse is a pure Breton curry powder characterised by its strong scent of cloves and distinctive ochre hue. Its ingredients include ginger, turmeric, chilli, cinnamon and pepper. It goes perfectly with lobster and all kinds of crustaceans.

On sale at a number of Breton pharmacies

Can you find saffron in Brittany?

It’s the most expensive spice in the world as it takes almost 150,000 flowers to make 1 kilo! Everyone knows about this spice, but could you every imagine it being created in Brittany? In recent years, numerous producers have taken up the challenge of producing this rare, much sought-after commodity. The extremely delicate harvesting of crocus stigmas is carried out in early autumn. Breton producers:

Didier Corlou

A “nose for spices”

Morbihan-born chef Didier Corlou puts his sense of smell (and all his other senses) to work in order to compose his own blends. An expat living in Vietnam for the last 25 years, where he manages 5 well-known restaurants, the country provides him with an ideal setting for expressing himself and creating new flavours. A seasoned traveller, Didier Corlou continues to wander Vietnam’s mountains and high plateaus in search of the best producers of cassia cinnamon, star anise, black cardamom, turmeric and wild summit pepper… His “Epices Corlou” range includes curry powders from Halong, Hanoi, Tangier and Thailand. A brand the Breton chef has started marketing in France.

Epices Corlou